Posted in Sewing

Brown Linen Pants

February 26, 2015 - 6:00 am

Monday I made another pair of the flutter leg pants, which Hunter insists looks more like gauntlets: 

2015-02-23 21.02.11.jpg

That was my TRIUMPH! photo at about 10pm Monday evening, so I’m certainly not looking my best, but I am, again, thrilled with the pants. This time I took some process photos of the assembly. There are a lot, so I may break this into a couple posts.

First, I had to fix the pattern. I discovered when I assembled the silk pants that I had shaped the flutter/gauntlet on the inseam rather than the outseam:

_MG_2746.jpg

That’s the pocket towards the wall and the crotch seam towards the front of the table, so you can imagine when I close up the triangle shaped pleats they are going to be on the inside of my legs rather than the outside. On the silk pants I solved this by slashing the fronts at the knee line and swapping left for right. It’s pretty much unnoticeable, and to the extent anyone ever does notice I assume they’ll think it was a deliberate style choice. 

For this go-round I slashed the pattern at the knee and flipped it over and reconnected it:

_MG_2752.jpg

Then I started looking at laying out the pattern on the available fabric.

This fabric has no give in the direction of the warp— the long direction of the fabric— but does have some in the weft, which runs from selvedge to selvedge. I don’t want the pants to get longer but wouldn’t mind some give in the other direction, so I definitely wanted to cut the pieces with the grainline parallel to the selvedge:

_MG_2755.jpg

Unfortunately because of the shape of the piece I can’t cut both left and right fronts from a single width of fabric. After some contemplation I realized I could easily cut a front and a back from a width: 

_MG_2757.jpg

So I ripped a length of fabric adequate for one side of the pants: 

_MG_2759.jpg

Flipped it over and laid it so it was right sides together with the main length, and trued up the grain for the back:

_MG_2760.jpg

Pinned it:

_MG_2762.jpg

Cut it:

_MG_2765.jpg

And then repeated that sequence with the front: 

_MG_2767.jpg

_MG_2769.jpg

I had plenty of length to cut the pockets out of the remaining fabric, but chose instead to cut the pockets in two halves from the strip under the ruler in the above pic. I did cut the waistband from the remainder. So here are the cut pieces: 

_MG_2770.jpg

But there was one more thing to cut. It’s important that the waistband has some structure, so I wanted to apply interfacing. I cut that to match the waistband: 

_MG_2774.jpg

ironed it on: 

_MG_2776.jpg

pressed the waistband in half, and was ready to start sewing! I think I’ll split this account here and put that in the next post.

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