Posted in Sewing

Lapped Zipper and Waistband

February 28, 2015 - 3:09 pm

Still working on the Brown Linen pants, at least here in blog land. In the real world I wore them out yesterday and they were awesome! 

So! zipper! I like side zippers on pants. I think a fly is distracting and adds lumps where they are not wanted. I always like a refresher on these things, so I went looking for a nice tutorial, and found Gertie’s instructions. They are excellent.

First was cutting 1” strips of interfacing for the seam allowances where the zipper will be installed: 


Then pressing them into the seam allowance. Note that I did this after sewing the side seam to the bottom of where the zipper will start, but it would have been better to apply the interfacing and then seam:


Ad then I got engrossed in the actual installation and completely forgot to take pictures. If you follow Gertie’s tutorial I pretty much did the same thing, until I got to the L shaped seam on the front side of the lap. Here I wanted to merge the zipper nicely into the top of the pocket, so I put in a little bar tack at the top edge of the pocket. You can kind of see it in the pic below parallel with the pin and near the seam: 


After placing the bartack I started sewing down the front side of the zipper tape in the way Gertie recommended, which was, of course, when I ran out of bobbin thread. There may have been bad language at this point.


Once I got to the bottom of the zipper I folded the pocket back over the bartack, and sewed the bottom of the L inside the pocket:


Then closed the pocket, and put another bartack along the pocket seam at the bottom of the zipper. I’m quite pleased with the final result.


Trial fit and front pleat adjustment:

2015-02-23 20.22.26.jpg

On to the waistband! I always cut waistbands a couple inches longer than I want them, and clip off the end once they are set onto the waist of the garment. I cut and interfaced the waistband in the first article in this series. 

First I sew up the end that will be on the inside, where the button will be attached:

2015-02-23 20.33.24.jpg

Then turn the waistband right side out, and pin it up to the top edge, starting at the button end. 

2015-02-23 20.35.12.jpg

 Then sew it up:

2015-02-23 20.36.49.jpg

 stopping about an inch from the end of the pants:

2015-02-23 20.40.20.jpg

 Decide how large of an overlap I want for the button hole, factor in seam allowance, and clip off excess. In this case about an inch:

2015-02-23 20.41.41.jpg

 Then sew up that end, and finish seaming the waistband to the top of the pants: 

2015-02-23 20.43.27.jpg

 Interfaced seams are basically impossible to turn into nice corners without clipping. Just a tiny triangle makes all the difference:

2015-02-23 20.44.43.jpg

 Perfect square corner!

2015-02-23 20.45.24.jpg

 To finish off the buttonhole tab I clipped the inside of the waistband where it would clear the zipper:

2015-02-23 20.46.11.jpg

 then tucked it in and pressed it:

2015-02-23 20.46.43.jpg

 And finally topstitched all around the waistband. Done except for the button, button hole, and hems!

2015-02-23 20.59.53.jpg


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