Recent Posts

Studio open for business!

I will be opening the Hack Your Clothes studio for business on Monday. Since it's in my home I won't ...

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All The Pants!

Well, not quite all. We ran out of light before the linen pants got their photoshoot. But most of the ...

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An Eighth of an Inch

I have pants! To be specific, a pair of natural linen pants, a pair of taupe silk pants, fleece pajama ...

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Icterine Curl Completed!

Quicky post to share pictures of the completed Icterine Curl:blocking:Before blocking: Enjoy! I sure plan to. :-)

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Davis NVF: The ultimate treadle for quilting

Yesterday I mentioned the Treadle Quilters on Facebook, and the quilt-along that Damascus Annie is putting together. I’m committing to ...

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Posts

Studio open for business!

January 24, 2015 7:15 am

I will be opening the Hack Your Clothes studio for business on Monday. Since it’s in my home I won’t be posting the address- message me for details. My initial open hours will be:

Mend it Mondays: 4 – 9pm, $5 – $20 suggested donation.
Come to the studio to borrow tools and get help from more experienced clothes hackers. We can help you fix whatever is wrong with your garment, no matter what has happened to it.

We have tools and skills to help you mend tears and holes, fix picks in sweaters, remove pills, fix or replace zippers, apply patches, and give advice on removing stains. Bring us your wardrobe challenges- we love them.

Thrifty Thursdays: 6 – 9pm, $5 – $20 suggested donation.
Bring in something that doesn’t fit your body or style and leave with something that does.

Always wanted a pocket in your favorite pants? Do your jeans suffer from saggy bottom syndrome? Maybe they are too tight to wear comfortably? Do you have an awesome tee you don’t wear because it doesn’t fit as well as your favorite old ratty one?

We can help you refashion your garments into whatever you can imagine. We also love taking thrift store finds and turning them into fabulous one of a kind garments. Come join in the creative fun!

Every other Week: Fix it Fridays: 4 – 9pm, $5 – $20 suggested donation.
Have a sewing machine that isn’t? Bring it in and we’ll help you out!

We specialize in vintage and antique machines including treadles. If you want to get grandma’s old black Singer working again that’s our sweet spot, but we can also help sort out most modern machines as long as they don’t have stripped gears or fried electronics.

We buy bargain vintage machines from Craigslist and thrift stores to clean up and tune up, and always have some on the shelf that haven’t made it to the bench for their spa day yet. You can adopt one of these and we’ll help you revive it to tip-top running condition, or bring in your own fabulous find!

Monthly membership suggested donation $60 – $120 sliding scale.

All The Pants!

January 22, 2015 9:35 am

Well, not quite all. We ran out of light before the linen pants got their photoshoot. But most of the pants. First, the silk ones: 

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As I mentioned, sufficiently tailored for business casual, but sufficiently funky for a fiber artist’s wardrobe. They have deep, deep pockets, which is wonderful.

Next, the silly bloomers:

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Fun! Silly! Comfy.

Finally, the PJ’s:

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Wonderful deep pockets! They are exactly the depth of the tips of my fingers.

They also make excellent yoga pants for chilly mornings:

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Calcifer the kitten is helping me with my finger placement. 

And, of course, they are delightful for lounging and knitting:

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An Eighth of an Inch

January 20, 2015 1:52 pm

I have pants! To be specific, a pair of natural linen pants, a pair of taupe silk pants, fleece pajama bottoms, and a pair of ruffly bloomers for under skirts. But to get the pants to work I had to refine the block I posted about. 

The silk pair are the last effort, and I believe a fully refined pattern. I’m thrilled with how they fit, and they have enough style and fun to amuse me while still being refined enough for more staid company. There will be pictures of all tomorrow, weather and time permitting, and a couple more pairs will get made up shortly. 

Today I want to talk about test fitting a block. Here are the first pictures taken after I had basted the seams on my first test cut:

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Basically pretty good! Already far better than anything I would be likely to buy at the store. Notice that I’m trying it on inside out, so I can easily pin and adjust the seams.

But there are still a couple problems. The obvious one is the crotch- easy fix. There is also an extra inch that snuck in on the back leg below the hip. There’s an awkward bulkiness there that I corrected out; not sure how that curve got thrown off in the pattern, but a small correction fixed it. I just left it alone in the muslin, which was actually a linen, and got made into pants. The pattern comparison pic further down will show corrections.

The more interesting thing is small but important. Notice the waistline isn’t quite level. It’s lower on the right. I didn’t take a pic that showed a corrected crotch before I also corrected the dip, but it was more obvious at that stage.

The problem? My dart mark on the fabric was an eighth of an inch off, meaning the back right piece was 1/4” too wide at the waist. 1/4” was sufficient to noticeably throw off the fit of the pants. Trust me when I say that’s a very small percentage of my total waistline, but it points out how important it is to mark and measure carefully. Here’s the corrected back view:

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The crotch still needed one more little tweak after this, but it was pretty close to the final. I should take a pic of how I keep track of muslin changes. Essentially I cut off excess and staple it to the pattern where it came from. That lets me easily track what bit came off where and recreate the final line in the pattern. Below is an overlapped layout of the original block from my measurements (green), the refined block in purple (though it doesn’t show the corrected back piece with the excess removed below the hip) and a complete pattern in red. It does show the hip correction, which has been copied back to the block now!

pants comparisons

Doesn’t that knee look funky? Wait til you see the silk pants I made from the pattern. :-) I’m thrilled with the fit. I also have patterns for pjs and bloomers, which I can share later when I have photos of all the finished pants.

Pants! a surfeit of pants! I haven’t had pants that fit this well, ever. 

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